Juneau Food

It was a great day to head to Sitka, so off I went. It was a long swim, and a nice town to walk around. Eventually, I got hungry. It was Red Hat's lucky day! Suddenly appeared the Secret Squirrel to make everything okay. His cache? A little bistro called Ludwigs, at 256 Katlian Avenue in case you are ever down that way. Secret Squirrel gives this place two claws up! I'm turning this one over to our special guest reviewer for the most part so that I can just enjoy the meal...

"Well, I'm quite tentative when it comes to small grub joints... one time in Idaho I ate white hashbowns at a diner. Ludvig's was not a white hash brown moment. Restruants that are humble gems hidden in inocent charming towns like Sitka have one trait in common... an ambiance where you discover new little details of the place each time you visit. Translation: they've put some thought into the feel of the place... they know that the essence of a restruant is an important element to a fine dining experience. A first impression like this calms my anxious negative approach to life."

You know it's got to be right on when there's a sign in the front window advertising the lunch special, organic elk burgers at a price that would not shock most Southeast sensibilities at all. Walk in and the place is full, indeed of the same satisfied diners who made it necessary to have reservations on a Monday evening even when there was no cruise ship in sight. But cozy full, of people wearing all kinds of fancy footwear. (This is Secret Squirrel's 'shoe check' test, shared with Red Hat by special arrangement.) The intimate bar seats perhaps seven sipping wine and beer, no hard liquor here, and the six tables are taken. Turn right upon entering to find a jar of Ludvig's specialty dog biscuits, so european, almost as though you could really bring your best friend here. Ah, back to the Secret Squirrel....

"I was feeling a bit on the wild side (it is Sitka after all), so I shot from the hip and sampled the Wild Mushroom Ragu. The dish is an adventerous mix of sauteed Portabella, Cremini, and Porcini mushrooms. I don't know bout' you, but when Secret Squirrel reads 'drizzled in truffle oil', he make a tiny gleeful grunting and squeaking noise. I washed this all down with a nice glass of Chianti. For those wine buffs out there the wine list will not disappoint. The Chianti was recomended with the meal and it is not a bad choice, but I would've gone with a someting a little more daring like a Shiraz or a Pinot. Recomending wine on the menu is really not good practice either. If someone needs helps choosing wine... they simply ask for help. When a menu recomends one particular wine... it is pretty much stating this is the standard wine you should choose with this food. There is a delicate variance of choosing a wine to compliment your meal and that is part of the fun of dining out. To phrase it more pertly, 'take off the training wheels.' The waitstaff at Ludvig's definately seemed quite adept at being able to enlighten a curious customer."

Meanwhile Red Hat was not backpedaling on a clam chowder unlike anything enjoyed before, and yet another version of the favored calamari. The chowder... had all the elements of authenticity with a twist or two. Jamon provided a sturdy foundation for clams, cream, requisite potato, onion, herbs, a mysterious something tangy, fresh sweet basil floating on top and surprise! a couple kinds of pepper for incredible depth and warmth. Spicy. Chowder. Imagine...In keeping with the rest of the menu, downright Iberian. The calamari was marinated 'til tender in lemon, cilantro, loads of fresh garlic, with an unusual vegetal element provided by a base of lettuce chiffonade which steeped into the broth. Minus just a spoonful or two of liquid, it was all gone. If the bread (baked on premises) was maybe just a little fresher or more interesting, even the dregs would have been mopped up with enthusiasm.

The dessert menu was interesting, offering walnut pistachio baklava, lemon pinenut cheesecake, something really chocolaty. It might have been the perfect way to top off a meal, but it was time to head out into the evening, swining from treetop to treetop trying to keep up with Secret Squirrel. But next time Red Hat revisits Sitka, Ludvig's will be on the top of the list.

You can check the place out online too. They cater!

Happy almost Summer Everyone!

Sure, last week it was margaritas... and I am sure for some, summer only can mean a double gin and tonic sipped in the shade. (More on those later? Who's to say?) But for Red Hat, Summer Time is Martini Time! and the fun really can continue all year round. The plan is to visit various Juneau drinking establishments and sample martinis. Possibly, this service will extend to other Southeast towns, so stay tuned if you are planning a trip. And if you have a favorite place to go for a sip, please please please let Red Hat know!

This time, Doc Waters was the watering hole of choice. The evening: Thursday. The music: Sammy Burrous on an acoustic, singing the blues and it was fine, fine fine! The company: excellent. The crowd: not too dense, might have worked better for Sammy if there were more people but it left the bartender: JR, free to be attentive. The drink: a little complicated, admittedly, a Stoli extra dry with a double twist, no olive, and lots of bitters. Most tenders are hesitant with the bitters, but they are what make this drink especially refreshing and *healthy*, right? Good for digestion and all that.

The performance was good. JR had fun pouring, took care with the shake, and added a little drama with the first little bit of bitters as though he was performing alchemy. So it was fun to watch, which is at least a small part of the reason to go out for one of these beauties rather than staying home and doing it alone. He knew what bitters are, and where he had them, and the bottle was a good-sized one. All pluses! He took extra special care to see that the glass was well chilled ahead of time, which not everyone does. So far, so good....

The drink: good the first round, which is more than can be said for some attempts at this mysterious mix. A decent amount was well-spiced and tinted with tangy dark citrus essence. The twist was lime, which is a different compliment from lemon but really good. The glass was more than half full. The second round, PERFECT! JR really went to town with the bitters, all inhibitions lost. The generously poured drink was delicious, cool, refreshing, and looked splendid with the contrasting colors of bitters and lime.

Sometime soon there might be a scale to this process, but for now the Martini Tour is off to a great start with a pretty high standard. Thanks JR!

If you have a favorite martini spot, or an extra special martini recipe you'd like to share, shoot an email and we'll give it a try. And 'til next time, bottoms up!

Did you know that Mexico celebrates its Independence Day on September 16? Or that this Cinco de Mayo is the 143rd anniversary of a battle, part of the 'Pastry War,' that took place while Texas was still part of Mexico, when bands of Mexicans defeated french troops sent by Napoleon III in a bloody battle originating from a dispute over damages for the looting of a patisserie , around a thousand miles south of today's border?

Does it matter? Cinco de Mayo has become a popular celebration of Mexican culture and unity across the United States, enjoyed by everyone. Its most popular mixed drink is the Margarita, of course. So, whoever you are, if you wonder what to drink at your Cinco de Mayo celebration, here is

Red Hat's Basic Margarita Recipe...

Ingredients:

-1 1/2 oz. tequila, the best you can afford (yeah, even though it's a mixed drink)
-1/2 oz. triple sec
-2 tablespoons lime juice plus a little bit, reserve half of a lime
-2 ice cubes, crushed
-coarse or kosher salt

Preparation:

Rub the rim of the glass with lime juice,
then dip the rim into coarse or kosher salt.
Fill the glass with the remaining liquid ingredients and give a stir.
Or, mix in a shaker, then pour.
Or, crush the ice in a blender or processor, add remaining liquid ingredients, blend together, then pour.

Your pick! There are many margarita variations, too. For example, curiosity will lead Red Hat to try garnishing with fresh rosemary in addition to a lime twist this time around. It's spicy, ultimately herbal tang should nicely offset the undertones of grapefruit, vanilla and caramel in my favorite tequila, as well as making a perfect aromatic compliment to the lime. Want some other ideas? Click here for yet more Margarita Recipes.

The next morning looming a little large? Try this
Special tip for May 6 courtesy VJJE Recipe Weekly:

To cure a headache, rub the cut side of half a lime on your forehead.
Aren't you glad you saved it? You'll smell nice too. Maybe you can use some of the rosemary too, and your friends will want to eat you up!

Now, find a designated driver and GO PARTY!

Among all the swimming, long walks on the beach and otherworldly experiences in shoe shopping, there have been a few more adventures on the other side of Dining down here. Or maybe that should be the underside of dining? I do not mean watching the gators, no, Red Hat comes from a family of Spillers. Last night it was only water, and probably would not have gone down if the table was covered. Instead it was shiny polished wood, slicker'n'???? in a huge eatery owned by a longtime family friend, one of four. Eateries this fellow owns, that is. In this one, he's typically on the scene and was thoughtful to sit with us for a few minutes time to time, catching up. He's smart enough to stay out of his own kitchens, too. But is it polite to suggest that with four, he is overextended?

An unnamed but especially accident-prone person, not Red Hat (this time), certainly was when they reached across the table for the pepper mill. Mom was not pleased to have a lap full of ice water. The already busy waiters just gawked for a few seconds as though they had never seen this kind of spectacle before, but that can't be true because the Family regularly patronizes this establishment. The bus boy had a big job, clearing the dining detritus of a table of five in order to mop up with whatever he could find. Luckily, all the food was spared, as well as an assortment of well-made martinis, a specialty of the house.

Actually, Mom had a Makers Mark Manhattan. But the rest of us had 'martinis' in chocolate, apple, something a little more standard, and of course vodka with a double twist, no olive, very dry, lots of bitters. This time Red Hat tried Grey Goose because it was the promoted house brand but really, Stoli is still best. Chocolate? Apple? These and flavors like them seem to sprout on menus these days like weeds. One here was listed 'Pineapple Upsidedown Cake'. Sadly, this did not also appear on the dessert menu. But, a sampling of each colorful drink (Red Hat's favorite should have bitters added 'til pink) was a reminder that a Martini Tour of Juneau is due or overdue! I'll not say now who and where back home I've had better, but I have.

Anyway, there are very good reasons why the Family no longer orders wine by the bottle and there's even reluctance to do so with San Pellegrino, even though it is as good as selzer for removing stains. And there are practical reasons to use a table cloth, or even plain paper as many bistros and seafood restaurants do. It's not just to protect the table anymore! No, these handy removable items not only provide a good non-skid surface that goes a long way to prevent spills and leaping flatware but, should a spill occur, they blot up liquid before it reaches Mom's lap. Mother's Day is coming. Get your table cloth now! And of course, this is why thou shalt not reach across a dining table for any reason. She taught you that when you were little, remember? Learn to say "Please pass the (your heart's desire here)," and teach this unto your children, teach your children well.

The busboy mopped the mess, the plates and color-coded glasses went back into place, and the meal continued. This restaurant happened to have the timing perfect for calamari, which was tender under a crunchy, flavorful batter even if the batter itself was a little heavy. Meats were all generous cuts, done just right per request, and my safe bet of a grilled tuna steak was seared with something spicy for a little bit of crunch on the outside to set off the ultra-rare flesh that is my preference, topped with a complimentary and soothing fresh pineapple salsa. Otherwise, the sides and sauces ranged from unremarkable to best forgotten, which reminded me so much of Juneau that I got a little homesick. That's where the owner's overextension comes in. If in the details, God left this building long ago.

And then came the dessert menu. Maybe Red Hat is too demanding of dessert, but most post-meal selections have disappointed. Many restaurants outsource their desserts commercially, buy some or all pre-made and frozen, and few are creative in their selections. They list them unimaginatively, often on the same menu as the rest of the meal. This place typically featured nothing made in-house unless baking off brulee counts, and nothing unusual past a six-layer torte of chocolate cake and three types of ice cream created in another one of the proprietor's businesses, an ice cream parlor. We were stuffed. Not one of us wanted to order anything from the unexciting dessert list, not even to share, but the owner sent a piece of the ice cream torte over as an added courtesy. It was still so sub-freezing cold that the flavors and textures remained obscured. It's apparently impossible, though, for five people none of whom professed desire for dessert in the first place to refrain from attacking a treat like this long enough to let it come to a better temperature. Nevermind that the servers should understand these nuances and anticipate patience for their customers, nor lament the important art of dessert tray presentation this experience demonstrates. Like vultures we were, once we all saw that intimidating tall wedge set down. Seeing is believing, and 'now you see it, now you don't...' Thank you Dad, for smartly tipping the thing over on its side for easier access. The lesson in Dining? Dessert brings an important sense of closure to a meal that most people seem to need and enjoy even if they don't think they want it.

(Are you still waiting for a baked salmon recipe? It's not ready yet...)

A place in Charleston, which had the sense to cover the tables with something and also present an exquisite softshelled crab crusted with pecans hot from the frier atop a huge pile of mesclun, real mesclun, and a few discs of montrachet or something similarly soft and chevre, had a dessert that left a scattering of luscious goosebumps. It was frozen, an especially smart and popular choice in a warm climate to prepare people for leaving the comfort of air conditioning. Instead of ice cream though, the pastry chef created a loaf of frozen hazelnut and pistachio 'nougat', which was in this case whipped cream based and not the stiffer taffy-like stuff used for candy. Service temperature allowed for just a hint of solidity and even a little flake or crumb to start, followed by heavenly, lofty smoothness unmarred by anything crystaline. Simultaneously lighter and richer than ice cream, it was packed with flavor that remained as the confection melted on the tongue. A slice of the loaf cut into wedges made a great presentation, garnished with contrasting and complimentary sauces and sprinkled with perfectly toasted nuts for texture. If Juneau is in for another 'hot' summer, this is one dessert Red Hat will have to attempt.

Along with Mom's Baked Salmon. Finally! It was the centerpiece for a Friday evening meal/discussion at another island home and, due to circumstance, an adaptation of yet another Mom's recipe. And Red Hat can guarantee, it will be even more delicious with real salmon rather than what is available where Mom lives. Just in time for the Derby too, but so simple! Mom baked salmon fillets that were sprinkled with lemon juice, fresh dill, a little salt and pepper, in a deep and heavy pan, covered, in a medium oven for around 25 minutes. Standard. Could be done over coals wrapped in foil for a similar result. She next combined about a pound of sourcream (brought to room temperature) with a few tablespoons of white hot horseradish and a pinch of salt and spread this liberally on top of the salmon. It went back into a cooler oven, so as not to curdle the sourcream while heating it thoroughly. You can top this with something that toasts under a broiler at the last minute for yet another texture. You can substitue or add different elements to the sour cream, such as a good mustard, fresh herbs, or even your favorite salad dressing, to be different. Use the technique on any salmon or trout variety. I can even imagine an adaptation for crab, however I'm not sold on halibut or any other similarly textured fish that's probably just a matter of preference.

Or, if you don't catch any good ones and no friends come through, you can spread that sourcream stuff on almost anything, baked or not, or use it as a dip. Your meal and your evening are saved. "Please pass the sourcream." Thanks again, Mom!